Why? It all comes down to design. “I think Loewe had become heavy”, Anderson told Vogue at the beginning of his tenure, “and I wanted it to be lightened up. I wanted it to feel fresher, sharper." That contemporary, playful aesthetic has come into its own in recent seasons – think colourful mismatched prints, exaggerated asymmetry and one famous panda motif that made anthropomorphic details a characteristic of the label. Add cult products – a slogan tee here, a logo knit there – and a roster of critically-acclaimed collections, and the brand’s momentum is officially back.
There’s one other factor putting Loewe at fashion’s forefront. Handbags may have long been part of the label’s heritage, but the advent of the Puzzle bag propelled the brand into unchartered must-have territory – made from 41 individual pieces of leather and adorned with seams and hand painted details, it’s the versatile design fashion girls have gone mad for. Available in pretty pastels and subtle neutrals, it’s seduced much of the FROW crowd, paving the way for additional popular designs, from the structured Barcelona to the 2018 large leather Hammock. Call it the Jonathan Anderson touch, or cite the influencer affect, but for whatever reason, Loewe is officially back on top.